informative, research evidence

Four ways to reduce climbing injuries to fingers, elbows and shoulders

Since arriving at Pinnacle Climbing Centre in mid-July I have been learning a lot about climbing injuries. It goes without saying that fingers, forearms and shoulders appear to represent the overwhelming majority of niggles, injuries and mobility issues among these issues. Although I can't be too specific, I would say that around half of those who I have spoken with have told me that they are either currently injured and of these, the majority of these individuals described at least one form of upper extremity injury (fingers, forearms, shoulders, elbows) - with a few neck and upper back issues thrown in for good measure. In fact, most of the folks with lower extremity injuries and pain seem to attribute them to other activities such as running - not climbing.
Now, as science is my specialty let's delve into the research...

biomechanics, education, informative, research evidence

Biomechanics: This is why you can’t understand the research articles…

Arguably, when we talk about biomechanics in a clinical sense there is a tendency to use 'qualitative' descriptions of motion, i.e.: planes of motion, ranges of motion. As clinicians or therapists, we describe qualities in a client's movement (i.e.: limited ROM, hyperextension, stiffness, etc). The intended outcome is often to categorise movement as either 'good' or 'bad', and/or to use these to explain a pain or injury. The main aim is for the output to inform our treatment/intervention selection.

background, Behind the scenes, exercise therapy, group exercise, informative

COVID-19 – Why it’s okay to not be okay

This is not a blog post. It's a letter to you. This is going to be a bit different to my usual content. Normally I might choose an injury or pain-related topic or theme. However, at this moment in time it is impossible not to address the circumstances we are all enduring as a global… Continue reading COVID-19 – Why it’s okay to not be okay

exercise therapy, informative

Three reasons that you’re still in pain…

One of the most common issues I treat in the clinic is persistent pain. Many of my clients arrive at the clinic after years of suffering. This is often a residual pain that started as a result of a traumatic injury... a muscle strain, or a broken bone. However, years after the injury has healed there is no reduction in pain - despite all the injured tissues healing and normal activities are resumed.