We all experience pain in our training. For some of us it is what keeps us returning to the gym. For others it keeps us away. But how much pain is good for us? And how can we tell when the pain is an indicator to take a step back?
Since arriving at Pinnacle Climbing Centre in mid-July I have been learning a lot about climbing injuries. It goes without saying that fingers, forearms and shoulders appear to represent the overwhelming majority of niggles, injuries and mobility issues among these issues. Although I can't be too specific, I would say that around half of those who I have spoken with have told me that they are either currently injured and of these, the majority of these individuals described at least one form of upper extremity injury (fingers, forearms, shoulders, elbows) - with a few neck and upper back issues thrown in for good measure. In fact, most of the folks with lower extremity injuries and pain seem to attribute them to other activities such as running - not climbing. Now, as science is my specialty let's delve into the research...
Let's set the scene... You've been struggling with shoulder issues for years... you can bearly remember when it started to bother you. Initially, it was just a niggle - maybe the odd twinge here and there, or a dull ache. It didn't used to get in the way of your favourite activities. But over the months or years since it first started it's slowly come to become such a nuisance that you started to avoid certain activities. In fact, at some points it's even stopped you from doing simple day to day tasks, like household chores or completing tasks at work.
If you are a regular visitor to Move Well Clinic and/or Genetix Gym you might have noticed that I have been less present at Lye lately - the blue and white roller banner has disappeared from the gym entrance, and the clinic room sits empty right now! That's because over the last couple of months I have been following through with my plans to relocate to Northampton!
At 09:00 on Sunday I rocked up to Hagley Hall car park with the Move Well Clinic treatment couch and a backpack full of sandwiches. I was there to provide sports therapy services to the 500+ runners in the annual Stroke Association West Midland's Resolution Run 2019.