Arguably, when we talk about biomechanics in a clinical sense there is a tendency to use 'qualitative' descriptions of motion, i.e.: planes of motion, ranges of motion. As clinicians or therapists, we describe qualities in a client's movement (i.e.: limited ROM, hyperextension, stiffness, etc). The intended outcome is often to categorise movement as either 'good' or 'bad', and/or to use these to explain a pain or injury. The main aim is for the output to inform our treatment/intervention selection.
It's been a hot topic for many years: does foam rolling improve sporting performance? Foam rolling has been a staple component of training programmes and warm-up and cool-down down routines for some time now. Each person who has ever used a foam roller will be able to say whether it worked for them. Anecdotally, we all know someone who swears by foam rolling to get through a work out. And equally, another person who hates foam rolling - they just don't see the point... or perhaps they feel it diminishes their performance when training or competing...
We all experience pain in our training. For some of us it is what keeps us returning to the gym. For others it keeps us away. But how much pain is good for us? And how can we tell when the pain is an indicator to take a step back?
Since arriving at Pinnacle Climbing Centre in mid-July I have been learning a lot about climbing injuries. It goes without saying that fingers, forearms and shoulders appear to represent the overwhelming majority of niggles, injuries and mobility issues among these issues. Although I can't be too specific, I would say that around half of those who I have spoken with have told me that they are either currently injured and of these, the majority of these individuals described at least one form of upper extremity injury (fingers, forearms, shoulders, elbows) - with a few neck and upper back issues thrown in for good measure. In fact, most of the folks with lower extremity injuries and pain seem to attribute them to other activities such as running - not climbing.
Now, as science is my specialty let's delve into the research...